Andrew Duong and AK Ramakrishna have been hospitality mates for a long time and look forward to collaborating for one night only. Photo: AK’s Diner/Instagram.
Chef AK Ramakrishna caused a few waves when he announced last year that after closing beloved fine dining fusion restaurant XO he would be running a hot-box takeaway lunch joint. Serving food just the way his Amma (mum) taught him, AK’s Diner is casual, quick and simple.
But despite the humble surroundings, it’s become a big hit not only with office workers on their lunch hour, but with the Canberrans who travel from across the capital for a box of rice with curries and AK’s feather-light roti.
I visited for a low-key lunch recently as the weather turned cool. As usual, two meat and two vegetarian options were available. Tempting as daal and cauliflower curry were, I opted for Beef and Thai Basil and the Chicken Peranakan curry.
I was sadly pipped to the post for the last curry puff (another reason to return!). But I, of course, accompanied the curries with a piece of roti. I also added a little spice and crunch from the serve-yourself jars of chilli crisp and added a spoon of house-made pickles.
The curries on offer at AK’s change regularly but are always delicious. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
The chicken is so super tender with aromatic pops of black mustard seeds. The aromatics of curry leaves and spices carry through the dish and meld with the rice on a wave of richly fragrant oils. A delight to scoop up with flaky roti and difficult to eat slowly!
The minced beef carries so much flavour with Thai basil adding freshness. I particularly enjoyed adding in those pickles to offer a punchy bit of acid to each mouthful.
While this wasn’t one of AK’s busiest days, there was still a steady flow of customers for lunch.
AK’s Diner has enjoyed long lines of diners keen to get their hands on the Malaysian street eats of the former XO chef. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
In addition to his regular daytime hours, AK has been running a couple of night-time pop-ups to showcase his love of specific dishes. A recent event selling fried chicken and Nasi Lemak was a sell-out sensation with queues of culinary devotees snaking out onto the street.
AK has just announced his next pop-up will feature Andrew Duong (of the now sadly closed Miss Van’s) serving up the Vietnamese dish Cà Ri Gà.
The social media announcement of collaboration describes the dish as a Vietnamese chicken curry with Indian flavours.
“A fragrant, slightly sweet, and mildly spicy coconut based curry stew. It’s made with chicken, carrots, potatoes, simmered in a blend of curry powder, lemongrass, garlic, shallots, and coconut milk, served with rice or a crusty baguette (a nod to French influence).”
And it’s promised to be made exactly as Andrew’s Bà/Amah/Nan use to make it!
The collaboration at AK’s Diner on Saturday 10 May starts at 5 pm until sold out.
AK’s Diner is located at shop 2, Phillip Law Street, Acton. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 am to 2 pm.
Follow AK’s Diner on Instagram.
