Dean Han is the chef and owner of Zero Complex. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Chef Dean Han has had a long culinary journey through European, Modern Australian, Malaysian, Chinese and Japanese cuisines. But people would often ask him, “You’re Korean, why don’t you do a Korean restaurant?” But he didn’t want to stick to a traditional Korean style of food, and he wasn’t sure how people would take it.
You could say he kind of got a complex about it, until he opened Zero Complex in Braddon.
“Now, I am doing a Korean cafe, so there is zero complex!” he told Region.
“There is a second meaning as well; I want to show people that my food is not very complicated and everyone can enjoy it.”
The concept behind the cafe is a Korean and Asian fusion with classic Australian brunch. Dean runs the kitchen, and his wife Anna Kang serves customers out front. The pair might be familiar to Canberrans from their previous restaurant: Tokyo Canteen in Kingston.
Bulgogi eggs Benedict is a hearty fusion treat. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
The menu is full of Aussie classics that will be familiar to most diners but they come with a touch of Korean flair: avocado toast is garnished with tofu crumbs and yuzu, and the breakfast roll comes with a kimchi tomato relish.
“There are a lot of cafes in Braddon, so I wanted to stand out and do my own stuff. I want to give a little bit of a twist to everything, or it’s no fun,” Dean said.
I thoroughly enjoyed the meaty eggs Benedict served with soy-marinated bulgogi beef, and yuzu hollandaise sauce. And Dean’s right: it is fun! Lotus chips on the side are a nice touch too. The hotteok pancakes take a traditional Korean street food and add fresh fruits and a scoop of tasty sesame ice cream for a lovely sweet treat.
In addition to twisty fusion dishes, you can also find some Korean classics on the menu, like the Bibim Bowl – a rice bowl with a mix of veggies and a side of house made gochujang chilli sauce so good I asked if they sold jars of it! Add some spicy pork and you’ve got yourself a fresh, filling dish. One customer came to recommend this dish especially when he saw me chatting with Dean; it’s highly rated and a fan favourite!
I was drawn to bunsik, a dish which essentially gives you a taster of different Korean street foods.
“If you go to Korea you’ll see lots of stalls selling snacks on the street. And they will always have dishes like gimbap, tteokbokki and tempura.”
The gimbap rolls (similar to a sushi roll, stuffed with vegetables and egg) have fragrant and colourful purple rice. Tteokbokki – chewy, thick rice noodles – is one of my favourite Korean dishes. This bowl comes with soft, thin fish cakes and a moreishly spicy sauce. Also included on the tray of bunsik is a bowl of tempura vegetables, pickled radish, and a bowl of umami rich miso soup.
All kimchi is made in-house – including vegan options – and many of the dishes on the menu are vegan or can be made to suit other dietary requirements. And if you’re feeling inspired, there are Korean recipe books dotted around the dining room.
I’ll be back for the chilli crab scramble and the kimchi fried rice (and for more of that gochujang sauce). Dean says he plans to change the menu regularly and I’m excited to see what other twisty brunch delights he can create.
Zero Complex is located at 132/24 Lonsdale Street Braddon. It is open from 7 am to 2:30 pm on weekdays, and from 8 am to 2 pm on weekends.
Follow Zero Complex on Facebook or Instagram.
