Chef Junho ‘Luffy’ Koh is the Bisa Executive Chef. Photo: Adam McGrath.
Who are you?
My full name is Junho Koh– but people call me Luffy. The name comes from a Japanese animated character. I could have called myself John or something, but I like it’s a bit unique. I’m the executive chef of Bisa Group, looking after Agostinis, Joe’s Bar, Cafe Sosta, Occasioni and now Azuma Den.
Tell me about Azuma Den.
Azuma Den is a Japanese and Korean fusion restaurant.
Japanese restaurants in Canberra are usually more fine dining – like Raku or Koto – while Korean restaurants are all super casual, and more like home cooking. So when I considered how to make Korean food more fine dining, the solution was to combine it with Japanese.
How did you get involved in the hospitality industry?
My very first job was in primary school, selling flowers with my Mum. At first, I was very shy, but I gradually gained more confidence and began to think about getting another job.
My Dad went bankrupt during the 1997 Korean financial crisis, so I wanted to earn my own money and help out. I started out working at a wedding buffet, first as floor staff, but when the dishwasher called in sick, they put me on dishes (because I was the youngest). That was when I saw the chefs working up close, with the knives and all the fire, and it made a big impression.
The chefs started teaching me to cut and prepare food. Eventually, I had to do my two years of Korean military service, but after that, I decided to go somewhere to learn to be a chef. I wanted to go to Italy first, but it was more expensive, so I chose Australia. In 2013, I flew into Sydney and got the Murray’s bus straight to Canberra!
If you weren’t in hospitality, what would you be doing instead?
My Mum actually didn’t want me to be a chef, because of the long hours and low wages, so I did six months of a civil engineering degree, but I didn’t like it.
Who do you admire in the Canberra food scene?
Chef Francesco Balestrieri [Bisa Group Culinary Director]. When I first came to Canberra, I found it hard to get a job because I couldn’t speak English very well. I was working as a dishwasher, and Francesco was in the kitchen. He noticed that I had some kitchen skills and promoted me to larder chef. I worked at lots of different places in Canberra after that, and then when I came to East Hotel in 2017, he was working here, and I’ve worked with him ever since! He’s a good chef and also a good businessman. He always wants a challenge, and I’ve learned a lot from him
Bisa Group Culinary Director Francesco Balestrieri (and a few fans) in front of Agostinis, East Hotel. Photo: Agostinis.
What is your food philosophy?
I believe food has power. Doctors and chefs both use knives, and we both heal people. Chefs don’t heal the body, but we heal the heart. For example, last week a couple came into the restaurant in a bad mood, they were fighting.
After they ate the food, they started talking and their mood totally changed! That’s why I cook.
What’s an underrated Canberra venue that you love?
I love Dada. I used to work with chef-owner Peter Kang, and I learned so much. Usually, chefs might just weigh 5, 10, 20 or grams, but he measures every single gram in his recipes. I get a lot of inspiration from him, and I really admire him too.
Where do you go out to drink in Canberra?
Yakitori 38 in the city. The owner, Jun, is a friend of mine, and he explains a lot of the wine and sake. If you just have a drink but don’t know what it is, it’s a bit boring, but it’s good when someone tells you about it.
But also, the staff at East Hotel often go to the Kingo after our shift ends at 10 or 11 pm because it’s cheap and open late!
Where do you like to go for coffee in Canberra?
Cafe Mame in Melba. The owner-chef, Jiwoo Kim, is very good, and everything is housemade. I love their coffee too!
And, of course, I have to say Cafe Sosta! My wife Lucia Ahn is actually the chef there now! She really supports me, and I couldn’t do what I do without her. It’s funny; I used to only make Italian food, and now I cook Asian. She used to cook Asian food for a long time, and now she cooks Italian. We swapped!
Cafe Sosta is located at The Red Shed, Black Mountain Rowing Club. Photo: James Coleman
Who is your dream dinner party guest, and what would you make them?
I don’t get to see my parents very often, so I’d like to cook them Italian food.
I also really respect CIT Pastry Chef Dammika Hatharasinghe. I met him when I was studying at CIT, and I went back to do the patisserie class because I wanted to learn from him. He was a big role model for me.
I would make dessert because it’s very hard to get a compliment from Dammika. At Azuma Den, we make miso and yuzu caramel meringue. It’s a kind of Western skill with Asian ingredients, so I’d love him to try it.
What is your current food obsession?
I always go to Dumpling House and get their laksa. It’s the best. Very balanced.
What’s the best thing you ate this week?
My wife’s gochujang marinated duck. We made this for when we went camping, but we still had some left over, so we had it for dinner after I finished work. When there’s just a little bit left, we cut it up small and make fried rice.
What’s a food that reminds you of your childhood?
Jang-jorim [Korean soy-braised beef]. My Mum would make a lot of this when she was busy with work and keep it in the fridge. So when I got home from school, I would make rice and eat the cold jang-jorim straight from the fridge.
When you can’t be bothered to cook for yourself, where do you go and what do you eat?
People don’t believe me because I’m a chef, but I’m a fan of fast food! Every Saturday I go to Macca’s with my kids. They love chicken nuggets and cheeseburgers.
Chef Junho ‘Luffy’ Koh and Chef Jun Kim, Sous Chef, have put together a Korean/Japanese menu that brings East Asia to East Hotel at Azuma Den. Photo: Adam McGrath.
Where are you travelling next?
Next year, I am going to Italy for Chef Francesco’s 40th birthday!
What do you love about living in Canberra?
I love Canberra because it is really safe, has good education, and people are very calm. On the weekend, we go camping or drive to Bateman’s Bay. Canberra has a special atmosphere and culture. The only thing I hate is the weather!
What have you been reading?
I read cookbooks and food magazines mostly. I enjoy reading, but it’s hard to focus on English books when I have to stop and look up words I don’t know. Whenever I visit Korea, I always buy a lot of books with translations.
An easy one to finish – what’s your go-to coffee order?
Iced long black.
