A warm welcome inside. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
An invitation to help Koto celebrate two years of offering its premier Japanese dining experience to Canberrans was impossible to pass up.
Lanterns lining the path to the restaurant entrance illuminate a masterfully designed exterior surrounded by pristine gardens. Even with limited architectural knowledge, I appreciate the beauty of Koto’s interior – its symmetry, understated elegance and mood lighting. The restaurant is packed, yet its layout ensures an intimate feel at every table.
Patio heaters entice us to sit out in the beautiful, less-busy al fresco space.
Mitsu Sakurai balances skill and performance. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Tonight’s main event is a visual spectacle: the ancient Japanese tradition of tuna-cutting, an art that takes years to perfect. We watch Mitsu Sakurai balance skill and performance while honouring and respecting the majestic fish.
Wielding his maguro bocho, also known as a tuna sword, Mitsu explains what to look for when purchasing fish at the market as he slices the entire tuna into sashimi before our eyes.
We learn that sweetness and omega-3 richness come from the fatty part of the fish – so, fatty is good!
When buying fresh fish at a market, look for a hole in the middle of the head; this indicates the fish was caught live on the line. A good fisherman will kill and bleed the fish quickly, preserving its firm texture and sweetness. If a fish is caught dead, it disintegrates quickly, and because it can’t be bled properly, the retained blood becomes smelly.
Of course, the fish we’re experiencing tonight is berry-bright, firm and fresh.
As Mitsu carves, Koto’s head chef and sushi expert Shinya transforms the tuna into exquisite canapés.
The bar area becomes a stage, with three simultaneous acts: tuna preparation, cocktail crafting by mixologists, and sake tastings poured by a head brewer from Japan.
The tuna tartare sushi is very fresh and delicately seasoned. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
We enjoy the roaming canapés, most of which showcase the beautiful tuna.
The tuna tartare sushi is delicately seasoned and absolutely melts in your mouth.
We savour the tuna tacos, biting into crisp, delicate taco shells filled with scarlet cubes of tuna tossed in creamy wasabi, onion pickles and coriander. Deceptively simple, they’re absolutely delicious. The wasabi is mild and enhances the tuna rather than overpowering it.
We taste tuna tempura, freshly fried, layers of golden crunch filled with whispers of the sea. Truly lovely.
The last canapé I try is the tuna ceviche on pumpkin puree. It’s bright and tangy against the luxurious cream of whipped pumpkin, and wrapped together in a tangy citrus dollop of yuzu kosho dressing.
The sake range is beautiful and varied.
The plum sake is bright, bold and sweet with cherry notes.
The sparkling Gassan is frothy with light bubbles, crisp and sweet.
Another sparkling sake we try is less sweet, with a complex woody aftertaste.
They are all delicious.
Sake tastings. Photo: Kazuri Photography.
Our first cocktail, the Sencha Highball, is earthy and not sweet at all; a blend of green tea, umeshu (crafted from unripened plums), and soda water.
Our second, the Ichigo Blush, blends strawberry and yuzu with coconut. A jelly mermaid tail floats adrift on the large square ice cube. This drink goes down very easily.
I can’t linger too long, so I miss the robata wagyu skewers, the miso eggplant skewers, and the mochi and matcha ice cream that circulate after my departure. However, I’ve enjoyed wagyu, eggplant, and matcha ice cream at Koto before, and I know just how good they would taste.
The most memorable refreshment I’ve had at Koto may no longer be on the beverage list, but I’m sure it could be made to order: the cabbage mocktail. Don’t disregard it simply because of its name. Lightly fruity and delicately perfumed, this ruby-red drink boasts a soft white froth and incorporates purple cabbage, jasmine, white chocolate, and pink pepper. Absolutely intoxicating and unique; like Koto itself, really.
Carefully designed to honour the Japanese lines and aesthetic of The Lobby building where it is located, Koto continues the tradition of hospitality in this historic space, offering refined experiences, including private dining.
Happy 2nd birthday, Koto. We love that you are thriving!
Koto is located at 1 King George Terrace, Parkes. It is open from Monday to Saturday, 12 pm to 3 pm, and 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm. Visit Koto Dining, or follow Koto on Instagram.
