The braised fennel was the standout dish of the evening for me. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
I think you can tell a lot about a person by where they go for a birthday dinner. As part of a broader week of celebration (why have one birthday event when you can have five? Or 10?), for birthday event number three, I had a lovely supper with my parents at Rizla on Lonsdale street.
Riesling is the name of the game at Rizla and a quick glance at the drinks list – which recently won a three-glass rating at the prestigious Australian Wine List of the Year Awards – tells you a lot about the diversity of this classic grape varietal.
By-the-glass offerings rotate regularly and are split into local, Australian and international wines. I enjoyed a glass of 2016 Chalkers Crossing Riesling, from the Hilltops region, which is heady with tertiary characteristics of dried fruit and marmalade.
Mum said it reminded her of a chardonnay, more than a riesling, as the sharp acidity found in young rieslings has mellowed over time, creating a deep yellow colour. A glass of Dr Loosen Reisling from Mosel, Germany is slightly off-dry – halbtrocken as the Germans would put it – adding a touch of sweetness to the wine.
We taste a young Austrian riesling which is more floral than its Canberra cousins. It’s fun to compare the different offerings and taste Canberra district wines side by side with some of the most highly regarded international counterparts. If you’re not in the mood for riesling there is also a range of reds, beers, spirits and non alcs (including an intriguing non alcoholic riesling) on offer.
Zippy zucchini pickles on toast is a lovely snack to pair with a glass of cold riesling on a hot summer’s evening. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
While I have enjoyed a rugged-up winter dinner under the heat lamps, this is a venue that shines in the warmer weather, with mostly outdoor seating available. And as a crisp, cold wine, riesling is also a particularly good summer beverage.
As my parents are both vegetarian, we opted to order just about every veggie-friendly dish on Rizla’s compact sharing menu. We started with two options en croute (on toast); confit tomato with black garlic and zucchini pickle with labneh.
The tomatoes were tender and juicy, with black garlic – a fermented product – adding a gentle sweetness. Macadamia butter spread on the base of the toast offered a nutty, umami finish: a lovely bite.
The zucchini pickles had been beautifully and carefully spiraled and had a touch of turmeric brightness to them. Zingy and acidic, the pickles were tempered by the creamy labneh and a sprinkling of dukkah added a little extra spice.
Apparently regular customers love this pappardelle so much there were complaints when it was taken off the menu! Photo: Lucy Ridge.
The stand-out dish of the evening for me was the braised fennel with stracciatella. The wedges of fennel had been crisply caramelised along the cut edges, with tenderly soft flesh.
Mopping it all up with creamy stracciatella and piquant currants was a delight – and it matched perfectly with the depth of flavour in the 2016 riesling.
We also split the mushroom, chevre and hazelnut pappardelle. The pasta had the perfect amount of bite to it and each bite coated the inside of my mouth with lovely creamy chevre.
Our attentive and enthusiastic server informed us that the kitchen tried to take this dish off the menu several years ago, but there were so many complaints they had to reinstate it and it’s been standard ever since.
Ricotta doughnuts for dessert are airy and delicious (and yes, they gave me a birthday candle). Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Full though we were, we shared a boozy citrus tiramisu – light and creamy and, as promised, quite boozy – and moreish ricotta doughnuts served with caramelised white chocolate and slivers of orange.
The genius of Rizla is that you never feel restricted by the wine list; rather, it opens up your palate to the expansive world of riesling and the food is perfectly matched to accompany this exploration.
Rizla is at 3/24 Lonsdale Street, Braddon. It is open from 5:30 pm to 9 pm Tuesday to Thursday, from midday to 9:30 pm Friday and Saturday and from midday until 8:30 pm on Sunday. Follow Rizla on Facebook or Instagram.
