Canberra's unexpected late-night eats serve up a surprise

First opening its doors in October 2018, Kita, Canberra’s only after-hours cafe, is not new. But it’s new to me.

On a recent trip to the Narrabundah shops to dig through the local Vinnie’s, I caught sight of a curious sign.

On the front door of a quaint suburban cafe straddling a corner tenancy on the southwestern side of the shops, it read “An overnight cafe? What were you guys thinking???” And with that, they had my attention and I wondered what else happens in Canberra after midnight?

The fact I didn’t know came as no real surprise; my late nights came and went more than two decades ago and growing up in Goulburn, the most you could hope for after midnight was for the mounted police to not step on your toes as they corralled you away from the doors of the local nightclub.

Goulburn firmly in my past and Canberra night life a distant memory, the time had come for a little midnight adventure.

The soundtrack for the night, the best of Broadway, of course… I am over 40 and show tunes are my jam.

The driver, my ever-patient husband and partner in food adventures.

The first destination, Ikigai Gungahlin, was a no-brainer. Its neon sign promises late-night ramen and here I was… ready for a late night and in need of ramen.

As we pulled up in the town centre, loud voices chanted from the Eastlake Club, all in agreement with Whitney Houston they wanted to dance with somebody.

Around the corner on Hibberson Street, three lone youths wandered down the street clearly hoping some mischief would come their way.

Inside Ikigai, the lighting was moody and couples were huddled at their tables over steaming bowls of broth. Given the hour and mood, it felt like walking into a noir film.

The food though was far from noir.

Canberra’s ramen scene of late has been so good, it’s not worth trying to pick the best. But Ikigai is certainly playing at the top of its field.

The spicy edamame was fresh out of the wok and every bite was a spicy and tart surprise due to the addition of Yuzu. The takoyaki (octopus balls) were light and tender with none of the rubberiness the dish can often have.

The ramen, despite the price of $28 a bowl, is still a shut-up-and-take-my-money kind of affair. The tonkotsu is a cloudy pork broth more savoury than sweet and the smoky, tender pork belly is offset by earthy woodear mushrooms, menma (fermented bamboo shoots), spring onion, furikake (a Japanese seasoning blend), mixed sesame, mayu (black garlic oil) and ajitama (a soft boiled egg soaked in a sweetened soy marinade).

For round two, we wanted to bring the tone of the night down a little. What are late nights for… if not a burger or kebab at a greasy hang?

Sadly, our trip down memory lane was thwarted when the Canberra stalwarts failed us. We were too late for The G-Spot in Nicholls, which closed at 11 pm, a statement I’ll never get to make again given my usual bedtime of 9 pm. Checkers, a 90s Belconnen favourite closed in 2010, really missed the boat on that one and tragically Dolly’s at the ANU and RJs at Woden have also departed this world.

Instead, we found ourselves at Grillin’ in the city. Located right next to a pumping Mooseheads and rating 4.8 inebriated stars on Google, this was the late-night greasy we were looking for.

The burgers here are sweet enough to be considered dessert; the bacon is breaking new grounds in the form of beef due to the halal nature of Grillin’; and the entertainment is free as young men of Canberra sword fight with their kebabs out the front (not a euphemism).

The menu spans classics including cheeseburgers and fried chicken burgers through to the substantial $22 Boujee Deluxe featuring three smashed beef patties, hydroponic lettuce, grilled pineapple, caramelised onion, fried egg, triple American cheese and beetroot all squeezed into a milk bun.

Post-clubbing tummy fillers have come a long way from the 3 am meat pie that was the after-Flamingos snack du jour in 90s Goulburn.

Burgers inhaled, it was on to the main event, the whole reason we were still standing at 1 am and the excuse I’m giving for eating three meals in one night – Kita.

Kita, Kita, Kita, I might be over 40, but I know a scene when I see one. And Kita is a scene, the early-hours queue for a table testament to that.

Kita delivers on all levels. Timber-panelled ceilings and walls meeting slightly trashed orange and blue lino tiles. Spider plants tumble from hanging planters. Couches are pushed up to tables and sit adjacent to mid-century modern chairs and an eclectic array of late-night Canberrans are gathered in groups with clothing ranging from hoodies and tees to pinafores and Mary Janes. The whole vibe is Eric Forman’s basement in That ’70s Show with the odd purple mohawk thrown in here and there.

Despite the rush, the service was impeccable. Front of house manager, Zac Young, fist pumps many of the customers who he knows by name but equally makes newcomers feel just as welcome and the takeaway window services the late-night emergency workers and police who regularly stop in for a quick one.

So what do people eat in the wee hours of a Canberra morning? Indonesian food. Otak Otak (Indonesian fishcakes), Lumpia (spring rolls), Soto Betawi (a spicy beef, coconut soup) as well as the famed peanut dish Gado Gado, Nasi Goreng (Indonesian fried rice) and Mie Goreng (noodles).

We dived into a special, the beef rendang, sweet and rich with spices including cinnamon, star anise and cardamom. The spring rolls were large enough for a new spin on the kebab sword fight witnessed in the city and the shakes will make you forget about beer or wine.

Rolling out close to 2 am, Kita was still buzzing with muso’s, hospital workers, shift workers and general night owls, all making a beeline for a one-of-a-kind venue that has done the impossible.

After a citywide late-night journey, one question remained – what was I thinking not coming here sooner?

Kita is at 59 Boolimba Cres, Narrabundah, and is open Tuesday to Saturday from 6 pm to 6 am. The kitchen closes at 5 am.