A coffee, a doughnut and a sandwich is all I need to be very happy indeed. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Visiting the National Film and Sound Archive just got a whole lot more delicious as the national institution adds Dom’s Deli to their collection.
The sandwich bar and cafe is run by Laurence Hughes, Brock Dunn and Nick Mico, who formerly ran Church Neighbourhood Goods cafe in Odgers Lane, before a City Renewal project forced them to close. They continue to operate an uber-cool vinyl store, skate shop and retail clothing space (also named Church) downstairs in Garema Place.
The cafe is named after Nick’s father, Domenic Mico, who was a champion of the arts scene in Canberra and founded (among other things) the National Multicultural Festival. He died shortly before Nick and his colleagues were approached by the National Film and Sound Archive (NFSA) to consult on the future of the cafe space in the historic building. Initially, they planned to be there for a year, but they fell in love with the space.
“The building is very inspiring – there aren’t many buildings like this in Canberra – and it was partly what made us want to stick around. Particularly when you’re sitting in the courtyard, it’s so beautiful, and it’s one of the national institutions that doesn’t have such a big name,” Nick told Region.
“A lot of my love of food, and particularly Italian food, comes from my heritage, so it was fitting to name the cafe after Dad. We used to go out for coffees all the time, and he would have loved it here too, sitting out in the courtyard.”
Nicholas Mico is one-third of the team behind Dom’s Deli at the NFSA. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
The newly opened space has been designed to mirror the old cafe and feels intentional, comfortable, and polished. The moss-green banquettes offer a vintage vibe to the space, although many will choose to sit outside as Spring weather makes the courtyard a more attractive option.
“The art deco touches all around the building were definitely something we wanted to carry through into the design of the space. We wanted it to feel connected to the building, like it could have been here for the last 50 years.”
Stepping up to the bar to order, customers can choose from an array of ButterBoy Cookies, locally made Italian-style doughnuts and house-made tiramisu.
There’s a list of toasted sandwiches on sourdough or fresh focaccia-based sandwiches made daily.
Living up to the deli name, you can expect a fresh take on a Reuben – beef and pickles with chipotle mayo, the Dom’s Special – mortadella, basil pesto, black olives, red peppers and fior di latte, or a thick-cut ham and cheese on an English muffin. There are also a couple of salad options and a classic three-cheese toastie.
I went for the Hot Honey fresh sandwich, which comes with layers of thinly sliced prosciutto, hot sopressa salami and fermented garlic honey. Combined with creamy fior di latte cheese and the added crunch of fresh salad, this is a hella-satisfying sandwich.
The doughnuts are made locally (Nick tells me they are made by “an old Italian guy who just makes really good doughnuts”), and the custard-filled doughnut is the perfect sweet treat to accompany the excellent coffee.
“I’ve always wanted to have a deli-style cafe,” Nick said.
“The longer I’m in hospitality, the more I like the simplicity of things. I don’t like big menus with too much choice. We just wanted a small menu that feels really well thought out and has something for everyone, but doesn’t have 20 pages.”
The art deco courtyard at the NFSA. Photo: NFSA.
In the evenings when there are events or movie screenings at the archives, Dom’s is transformed into a wine bar to cater for pre-theatregoers and locals looking for a snack. A quick glance at the shelf reveals a wine list that is succinct but snazzy.
Having such a well-rounded cafe/bar offering on-site is sure to be a boon to the NFSA’s other cultural programs – arriving early for Vinyl Lounge (you gotta beat the rush if you want your records played) just got a whole lot more attractive – and will keep patrons satisfied as they peruse the collection and exhibitions on offer.
Dom’s Deli is located at the National Film and Sound Archive, and is open from 8:30 am to 3 pm Monday to Friday, and 10 am to 2 pm on weekends and public holidays.
For after-hours screenings and events, Dom’s will stay open later with a selection of wines and snacks. Follow Dom’s on Instagram.
Find out more about the National Film and Sound Archive events and exhibitions at the NFSA.
