29 August 2025

From medieval France to Canberra: Ancient culinary association establishes local chapter

| By Lucy Ridge
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A group photo of four people wearing ribbons and medallions at a dinner table.

Bruce and Deborah Mackie (left) with international members of the Chaîne at an event in Paris. Photo: Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Australia/Instagram.

A French culinary association dating back to 1248 has recently established a chapter in Canberra.

La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs was created as a guild by King Louis IV to formalise the education of goose roasters in France, and is now an International Association of Gastronomy with over 21,000 members in 75 countries.

Canberrans Bruce and Deborah Mackie first learned about the Chaîne through friends in Queensland and soon after joined the nearest chapter – called a bailliage – in Sydney, and realised there were a few other Canberra locals among them. After nearly four years, they decided it was time to bring this historic club to Canberra.

A group photo of eight people wearing ribbons and medallions.

Bruce Mackie (centre) with members of the Chaîne at The Sheridan Room in Gundagai where they attended a dinner and cabaret as part of their three-day country tour. Photo: Deborah Mackie.

Bruce Mackie is the bailli (head) of the Canberra region bailliage, and says that the Chaîne is a great way to expand your social network and learn more about food.

“Deborah and I have been in La Chaîne for over four years, and in that time we’ve made friends from all over the world and all over Australia,” he told Region.

“If you’re heading off overseas, you can get in touch with the local chapter and attend their events. Often someone from La Chaîne will meet up with us, and give us the names of good restaurants and wineries to visit.”

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A recent trip to France saw a fellow Chaîne member in Lyon take Bruce and Deborah to his favourite local restaurant, as well as his butcher, baker, and local market stalls, creating a unique holiday experience that they wouldn’t have had without the connections created by the Chaîne.

The newly formed Canberra chapter has around 30 members, including the Ambassador of France in Australia, His Excellency Pierre-André Imbert, and local French restaurateur and chef Clement Chauvin, of Les Bistronomes restaurant. The Canberra chapter has members in their 30s to their 70s.

They organise regular dinners at local restaurants, which often include a specially crafted menu and an opportunity to speak with the chef. Sometimes the events might be a masterclass in something like Sake, or a behind-the-scenes tour of a winery.

Two people stand in front of a paddock with free range black pigs.

Chaîne members Ross Jones and Tracey Walsh at the Stockinpiggle farm in Stockinbingal. Photo: Deborah Mackie.

Recently, the Canberra chapter enjoyed a regional tour of Canberra region wineries and other producers in the area, including a visit to Stockinpiggle Farm in Stockinbingal and a suckling pig dinner at Bah Bah Restaurant in Cootamundra.

In many ways, it’s much like any other food and dining club, but the activities of La Chaîne extend beyond the dinner table.

“One of the main differences between La Chaîne and other organisations is that we also have a professional arm, so we have members who are chefs, sommeliers, wine makers and hoteliers, alongside non-professionals who are people who really love food, wine and the camaraderie of the table,” Bruce said.

“We are very involved in the development of young chefs and young sommeliers, and La Chaîne runs competitions for young chefs, who then compete nationally, and the winner goes to the international competition.”

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The Chaîne also runs an international charity for food relief and hosts a large international gathering, called the Grand Chapitre, annually.

A man being dubbed with a sword by another man - both are wearing coloured ribbons with medallions, in the background two other people stand in front of the symbol of La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs.

Bruce Mackie being inducted into La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in Paris in a formal ceremony. Photo: Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Australia/Instagram.

As to be expected in such an old organisation, there is a small amount of pomp and ceremony involved in becoming a member. Ordinary members are either a chevalier (a knight) or a dame de la Chaîne, and they are dubbed on the shoulder with a sword before ribbons are placed around their neck. Extra coloured ribbons, medallions and other insignia are gathered as a member progresses in the organisation.

Find out more about the history of La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and the Canberra Bailliage, and follow La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Australia on Instagram.

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