Summer plantings can generally start in late October … so you’d better get moving! Photo: Wynlan House.
Mid-spring is typically an exciting time for food growers in cold-climate regions.
The BoM now suggests we are going to have a drier, warmer spring into early summer than previously indicated, which should mean bumper crops of beans and just about everything else!
It is worth starting the process of summer vegetable planting from late October, as cucumber, basil, zucchini, pumpkin, tomatoes, fingerling eggplant, peppers, chillies, and corn can be planted as seedlings to take advantage of the likely warmer weather.
In our garden, soil temperatures have just reached the magic 16-degree mark – the minimum soil temperature summer vegetables need.
These should thrive provided there is some opportunity to protect them from outlier frosts that may still occur in October and November.
It is essential to remember that a sudden, unexpected frost can devastate all summer vegetables. Something as simple as a cloth throw-over can mitigate frost damage when temperatures are predicted to be below 2 degrees.
We probably have to acknowledge that as the weather becomes less predictable, with a heightened risk of disruptive storms, outlier frosts, and heatwaves, the usual timing of summer plantings is also becoming unreliable. Using a mix of vine and bush varieties wherever possible is one approach that should ensure a successful crop.
Fruiting and flowering from bush (or determinate) varieties happen all at once, and a sudden frost can decimate your crop, while with vine (or indeterminate) varieties, flowers and fruits occur over an extended period of time. Beans, peas, tomatoes and potatoes all come in bush (also called early or determinate) and vine (also called late or indeterminate). In the vegetable world, early and late varieties are not determined by when they are planted, but by when they are harvested.
Succession planting is another tactic for addressing climate change. Try planting your favourite summer vegetables more than once, with the second planting two to three weeks after the first. While this is not often possible in cold climates with tomatoes, chillies, peppers or eggplants, it is possible with peas, beans, sweet corn, zucchini and other squashes and, of course, all other vegetables.
If you want a bumper crop of eggplants, you’ve got to get your timing right. Photo: Wynlan House.
Eggplants, chillies, and peppers (capsicum) can be tricky to grow in cold climates. Firstly, fingerling or long, thin varieties grow more quickly than the globe type; therefore, in our short growing season, they are often grown in preference to the latter. They all prefer growing temperatures between 21 degrees and 30 degrees. In cold climates, overnight temperatures can often dip below 10 degrees through the spring and summer growing seasons, and this can significantly impact fruit production and the time it takes for fruits to reach maturity.
In general, this means that ripening of these wonderful fruits will not occur until well into autumn.
A dry summer unusually results in better fruit production than a wet one. Wet summers in cold climates result in lower summer temperatures, which directly impacts fruit production and maturing.
For all these plants, the richer the soil, the better. They do produce moderately deep roots, so a light friable soil with very good drainage works best. To discourage mould diseases, leave plenty of space between plants, at least 60 cm. Staking the growing plant is recommended, and a position, if possible, protected from the wind. Their fertilising routine is a bit like tomatoes. Once the fruit sets, fertilise with a complete liquid fertiliser or side dress with a rich compost.
Continue this process fortnightly until the fruit is almost ripe. Remember to keep watering as dry spells damage the maturing fruit. If you take good care of them, you will be blessed with a wonderful crop.
It’s your garden, so why not plant a variety of radishes? Photo: Wynlan House.
There are a few excellent fast-growing vegetables you can plant now as seeds.
Radish can be planted directly in the ground this month once soil temperatures get to beyond 7 degrees. Of course, a temperature of 14 degrees or higher will ensure good germination, which is why October is an ideal month for direct planting.
Varieties commonly planted include the long white Japanese radish and the French breakfast radish. A search of online Australian seed companies shows that there are many varieties of radish available now in practically every colour of the rainbow. Rido Red and Watermelon are two varieties that are white on the outside and red on the inside. There is Golden and Daikon Red if different coloured skins appeal. These coloured varieties will add interest as well as crunch to any salad.
There is also a wide choice of radish microgreens and sprouts available for something a little different. Radishes are a cool-climate, quick-growing crop that thrives in spring and autumn. Soil type is important for radishes. They need a light, preferably well-drained sandy or highly friable soil with good moisture-retaining qualities.
Typically, a generous helping of compost and complete fertiliser, or well-rotted manure, added to the planting area a few weeks before planting will create richness and enhance moisture-holding capacity. Radishes grow and mature quickly, so they require their nutrition upfront. Seeds can be planted in a shallow dip made by running a finger across the surface at about 1cm deep. A metre-long row at each planting is enough to add an incredible zest to salads. They should be ready to eat in six weeks.
Bronwyn Richards and Helen Lynch run Wynlen House Artisan Village Farm and Learning Centre, a small village organic market garden in Braidwood, NSW. Since 2006, they have grown and sold fresh vegetables, eggs, preserves and garlic, and teach others to do the same.
