Classy, relaxed and it has quite the view. Photo: Nick O’Leary Wines.
Tucked away just a 20 minute drive from Canberra’s north, Nick O’Leary’s cellar door at Heywood is a real local gem. The award-winning winemaker opened the cellar door and restaurant at Wallaroo in 2023, giving wine lovers a new gourmet destination right on Canberra’s doorstep.
This was my first time visiting the cellar door – overdue, I know – and I was immediately impressed with the space. It’s classy but relaxed, with a beautiful outlook towards the Brindabellas.
Settling into our table we considered doing a full tasting of the wine list at the bar, but instead chose to have a flight of wines to accompany our meal.
Picturesque and closer than you’d think. Photos: Lucy Ridge.
I was particularly excited to see the museum wine flight, offering a taste of Riesling from 2017 and 2013 and Shiraz from 2019 and 2015. It’s unusual to have the opportunity to taste older vintages like this and what equates to two full-sized glasses is available for the bargain price of $32. The wines have aged impressively well and had me quietly vowing to put a few Nick O’Leary bottles aside for future years!
You could also choose paddles of all white wines, all red wines, or a mix.
Chicken liver pate and fennel salami were great starters.
We started with a plate of garlic and fennel salami with pickled fennel and guindillas (small green pickled peppers), with sourdough rolls and smoked butter.
The chicken liver parfait with MADA prosecco jelly was another delectable morsel and would only have been improved by freshly fried bread for a little more crunch.
Three hungry adults shared the whole spiced lamb shoulder which was fall-apart tender, richly fatty and perfectly balanced with the zing from chilli mint yoghurt and fresh cucumber. Simply gorgeous and well paired with a fried eggplant dish featuring cashew cream and barberry salsa.
The lamb shoulder was beautifully tender and flavourful.
We also devoured the charred sugarloaf cabbage with mojo rojo (spiced red capsicum sauce) and salsa verde (herby green sauce). This dish would happily feature on any bourgie mod-Aus restaurant menu in the centre of town: further proof that this isn’t just a cellar door serving food, it’s a legitimately good restaurant which happens to be attached to a cellar door.
Oh, and the fries are really good. Don’t overthink it, just order them.
If wine isn’t your thing, there’s a delightful bar serving signature cocktails, pouring beers and serving creative non-alcoholic beverages to appease your designated driver.
On a hot summer afternoon I look forward to returning for a Frozé: that’s a rosé slushie with strawberry and cream tea syrup.
A dish which I’d be happy to eat on any menu.
Plush green lawn with umbrellas and garden games will entertain children – there’s also a kids’ menu – and makes for a lovely post-prandial stroll.
Nick O’Leary’s Heywood Cellar Door is at 149 Brooklands Road, Wallaroo. Follow Nick O’Leary Wines on Facebook or Instagram. Find out more on their website.
