The pork and the chilli oil are a standout in the crispy pork pho at Noi Noi. Photo: Tenele Conway.
I always judge the popularity of a bánh mì seller by the stacks of Saigon rolls in the sandwich cabinet, and mere minutes after opening, Noi Noi has a hefty stack awaiting the lunch rush.
Located in the Casey town centre, Noi Noi has been serving its neighbourhood with quality Vietnamese food for eight years. The current owner, Kevin Nguyen, purchased the restaurant six years ago.
“I came to Canberra to study, and then Noi Noi came up for sale. We now run it as a family restaurant,” Kevin explains.
Buying into an established restaurant put Kevin one step ahead of the game, and he has since been able to refine the existing menu.
The main menu is primarily Vietnamese, with a smattering of Malaysian dishes, including laksa, and a growing selection of Chinese dishes appearing on the specials board. I personally stick to Vietnamese dishes, but I can see, for broad appeal, why they’ve expanded into more cuisines.
Noi Noi is in the Casey town centre. Photo: Tenele Conway.
Despite the evident popularity of the bánh mì, it’s the soups that keep me coming back, and one soup in particular caught my eye on a recent visit: the crispy pork pho.
I often avoid pork belly dishes, as they can be a mixed bag of textures, ranging from too fatty to too dry. However, it only takes me moments in front of this pho for me to feel equal parts surprised and disappointed that I’ve never ordered this sooner; it’s a showstopper.
Kevin tells me that the crispy pork version of pho isn’t traditional to Vietnam; he added it to the menu as his customers love crispy pork, and he really hit the nail on the head with this dish.
The rectangles of pork submerged in the beef broth have the firmer texture of roast pork, while remaining perfectly tender. The seams of fat through the pork belly are well-rendered, so they add moisture to the meat without imparting a fatty mouthfeel.
The broth itself is rich and spiced, the rice noodles are the rough-cut variety that have a little resistance when you chew them, just the way I like them, and the requisite plate of accompaniments is in good quantity, so I can add bean sprouts and basil to my heart’s content.
Not traditional to Vietnam, Noi Noi owner Kevin recognised the popularity of crispy pork and adds it to pho. Photo: Tenele Conway.
The real secret to this place, though, the one that just shot it to the top of my personal must-eat list, is the homemade chilli oil.
Deeply caramelised, with the blood-red oil floating above the thick paste at the bottom of the jar, this chilli oil leans more towards the style of a Cantonese chilli oil, with one big exception: the lemongrass, which features strongly in the flavour profile.
It’s also spicy without being too spicy, so you can load up your soup to benefit from those caramelised flavours without it pushing the spice level of your soup over the edge.
As I work my way through my pho, this place is already ramping up, and it’s only 11 am. A large order of over $200 comes in over the phone. The kitchen is bustling with staff, and empty packaging from the morning restock is being shuttled from the kitchen. Meanwhile, the chefs happily chatter away in Vietnamese.
It’s a heartening sight.
The more often I visit Casey, the more I get the feeling that the community is a connected and vibrant place to be – enough to see me wear a well-worn trail down Horse Park Drive.
Noi Noi Vietnamese Restaurant is located in Casey Market Town and is open 6 days a week (closed Tuesday).
