Co-owners Ben Florance and Adam Brown have curated Tintino’s wine list. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
What better week to open a wine bar in Kingston than the first sitting week for a new parliament?
Perched by the window on opening night for Tintino Wine Bar, people-watching became a parade of ‘who’s who in Canberra’ as pollies, staffers, journos and punters wandered past.
The cosy feel of the bar belies the fact that it is brand new: brushbox floors, wooden fittings, green checkerboard tiles and a comfortably busy buzz make the high-ceilinged space feel like it’s been lived in.
For co-owner Ben Florance, opening in Kingston is something of a homecoming.
“My family is from this area, my grandma’s from the Causeway, and I spent a lot of my childhood in Narrabundah, Kingston and Griffith, so it feels like coming home for me personally,” he told Region.
“It just felt like a really good fit. I think old Kingston shops are coming alive again.”
Head chef Brendan Hill has created a menu that pairs perfectly with wine. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Partnering with wine expert Adam Brown (who has personally recommended many excellent bottles to me during his time at Ainslie Cellars), Ben wanted to create a wine bar where you could also grab a bottle to take home.
“We wanted the wine list to be very curated. We definitely don’t want to have our limited shelf space filled with similar wines; we want each wine to speak for itself,” Ben said.
“I’ve kind of been talking about everything we do in the business, making wine more accessible to people and opening up that world to people who might be more seasoned or who might just be starting out on that journey.”
The food menu, developed by head chef Brendan Hill and sous chef Sophie Schiliro, offers a selection of small bites, along with a few more substantial dishes and sides. Gilda skewers of anchovies, pickles and olives are a one-bite-wonder and pair beautifully with a glass of Linear Gruner Veltliner.
Beef tartare with gochujang is a delightful treat, and the lamb belly skewers, topped with caramelised yoghurt, are a revelation.
The team was accommodating to the dietary requirements of our party, although vegetarian options are limited to a handful of snacks and the three side dishes. But oh, what sides they are!
Chefs are occasionally guilty of neglecting humble vegetables in favour of show-stopping proteins, but at Tintino, the sides are interesting, diverse and delicious. We loved mopping up cashew cream with tender cauliflower blossom florets, and a carrot-top chimichurri somehow made the carrots even earthier. Brussels sprouts are served crispy with hot honey and Mimolette cheese, elevating them to an entirely different level from the sad, boiled sprouts of the 90s.
But those main proteins are also given the star treatment.
We were given steak knives, but spoons would have sufficed for the melt-in-the-mouth wagyu flank. And pressed chicken with corn, saffron and truffle madeira is a warm hug of a dish.
I appreciated that desserts were printed on the regular menu rather than as an afterthought because I had the opportunity to deliberately save space for a very tasty drunken quince and sourdough ice cream. Kumquats cut through the richness of a dense chocolate terrine with mascarpone.
The menu is sophisticated yet fun, the wines are classy yet approachable, and the service is friendly yet professional.
Take a seat or take it home is the motto of Tintino Wine Bar. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
The menu on Sundays will change to be a more relaxed affair. Nicknamed Sunday Mass – after Ben’s family tradition of Sunday lunch – the menu will likely be burgers and fries and the like.
“People have time on a Sunday afternoon, but they might not want to commit to a full dinner. Once they’ve done the shopping, they can drop in and linger. Maybe we’ll get some hospo crew in as well!”
The opening of Tintino has been much anticipated among locals who have been eagerly popping their heads in for weeks. It’s already settling in to be a favourite haunt for Kingston residents and those living further afield.
Tintino is located at 4/11 Kennedy Street, Kingston. They are open from 12 noon to 9 pm on Monday and Tuesday, 10 am to 10 pm on Wednesday and Thursday, 10 am to 12 am on Friday and Saturday, and 10 am to 9 pm on Sunday. Follow Tintino on Instagram or visit their website for more information.
