Ikko’s dramatic lighting and interior design make for a cosy dining destination. Photo: Tenele Conway.
It’s hard to walk two blocks in Canberra without a steaming bowl of Japanese ramen slapping you in the face. And what’s not to love? Rich, savoury, aromatic, sometimes traditional, sometimes experimental.
Yet my not-so-secret penchant for ramen’s primary competitor, udon soup, has led me to a corner of Belconnen that west-siders have been hiding from the rest of us – Grazier Lane.
Folded between the wings of a high-rise apartment development, Grazier Lane is an urban enclave built to take care of the needs of local tower-dwelling citizens, and now I’ve let you in on the secret, it can take care of your needs too.
I am, of course, assuming that your needs are like mine, udon-related, and if that is the case, as I suspect that it may be, then make a beeline to Ikko, a Japanese eatery with a flair for dramatic lighting yet approachable dining.
Before I skip straight to the udon menu, I should be transparent that this menu encompasses far more than just udon, I just have a one-track mind. There are delightful starters such as corn ribs, gyoza, sashimi and the 16-hour sous vide beef atop salad that I enjoyed immensely.
16-hour sous vide beef is a meaty and hearty starter. Photo: Tenele Conway.
You’ll also find mains such as Donburi (rice bowls) topped with an array of choices from roast beef to chicken and pork katsu or even a tower of fried karaage chicken. There are also sets which will see you enjoying unagi (eel), chicken or pork loin with a side of rice and miso soup. It’s all beautifully presented and dances from the open kitchen to eagerly awaiting diners.
Despite the tempting and varied Japanese menu, they had me at udon, and I wasn’t leaving without downing a bowl … or two. The six varieties on offer are an interesting intersection of traditional Japanese udon soups featuring classic dashi broths through to more avant-garde inventions that blend creamy Italian-style sauces with Japanese flavours.
On the traditional side of the coin there is Kitsune Udon, which features the traditional dashi broth and is topped with deep-fried tofu. There is also Niku Udon, niku simply meaning meat, and in this case the meat is marinated thinly sliced beef, and then there is a modern take on a traditional curry udon that has a cheffy pumpkin espuma (foam).
Turning tradition on its head in the best way possible are also three creamy udons that stand testament to the fact the cuisines will always morph and evolve.
The Ebi Cream Udon is more noodle, less soup and equally delicious. Photo: Tenele Conway.
The Ebi Cream Udon could best be compared to a very not-Italian carbonara where udon noodles take the place of spaghetti, prawns have brought along some seaweed sidekicks and an extremely tart pickle comes on the side to cut through the richness. The noodles are light yet chewy, the sauce is peppery, and it will have you completely forgetting that ‘fusion’ used to be a dirty word.
Obsessed with this new world of udon, I also tried the Mentaiko Cream Udon which is much soupier than the Ebi Cream Udon and the thick white broth sings the tunes of the ocean with cod roe, prawns and seaweed. All unsuspecting waistlines should be warned: this dish is so good, it’s dangerous, but I won’t tell the doctor if you don’t.
Creamy udons are not traditional but they’re delicious. Photo: Tenele Conway.
All good meals should be paired with a culturally appropriate beer and there is rarely a better beer than Japanese beer. You’ll find all your faves including Asahi Super-Dry, Kirin Ichiban, Kirin Zero Ichi, or if you like an enigma wrapped in a can you can get a tinnie of lager that remains unnamed on the menu, mysterious. There is also a nice little wine list that can take you on a tour of Australia and New Zealand with options by the glass or bottle.
As I roll my full belly out of Ikko, I think about the bold move they’ve made not putting a single ramen on the menu; it’s the kind of move we need more of in dining. We need people to push the envelope and develop tastes and trends, and if creamy udon is where boring ends and inventiveness begins, I can get on board with that.
Ikko is located at C06/2 Grazier Lane, Belconnen and is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday.
