Parlour Wine Bar is a longstanding Canberra restaurant in one of the Capital’s oldest buildings. Photo: Supplied.
Kevin Steadman is an old-school Canberra chef. He completed his chef’s apprenticeship in the Capital during his younger years ticking off iconic venues like The Lobby and The Boathouse, earning himself a few hats along the way.
After stints overseas and interstate, Kevin settled in Canberra to raise a family and decided that he needed a nine to five job. So he did what any good Canberran does and joined the public service. But 15 years later, with his kids grown, the siren song of hospitality called him back into the kitchen.
He told Region he was looking for “the right spot” for his return to the industry. He had considered starting a business from scratch, but when Parlour Wine Room and sister venue High Jinks bar came up for sale, he jumped at the opportunity to reinvigorate an iconic old-school Canberra venue.
Visiting for a media launch, I had a sneak peek at what’s on offer.
The line-up of cocktails at High Jinks is impressive. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
The High Jinks Bar is tucked into the basement of the building. Colourful Art Nouveau lampshades hang above the bar as cocktails are shaken, stirred, garnished, and even occasionally set alight. On the list is a very lovely Earl Grey Sour: botanical gin shaken with an earl grey infused syrup and egg whites for a frothy, aromatic drink topped with a pinch of lavender. It goes down very smoothly indeed.
Sitting on the leather banquettes, we’re also treated to a few snacks which are available to order from the kitchen upstairs, run by head chef Simon Prickett. Panko crumbed prawn skewers with Japanese goma dare sesame dipping sauce are moreish, and a silky chicken liver pate is luxurious when spread on toasted brioche with old-school Cumberland sauce and cornichons, of course.
Kevin Steadman left hospitality for a steady public service gig, but now he’s back. Photo: Supplied.
I’ve most recently been to Parlour for weddings, but the dancefloor is once again covered with white-linen draped tables. The quirky decor remains – leather chesterfield sofas, fringed lamps and soft curtains – to create semi-private dining areas.
I opt for a local chardonnay from Mada wines to accompany my dinner.
Sharing among a group, we enjoy the pillowy-soft gnocchi with sweetly roasted cherry tomatoes, zucchini and basil and meaty market fish wrapped in prosciutto served with mograbieh cous cous and pomegranate seeds.
The twice cooked lamb is a very tender favourite – entirely forkable with a salad of thinly sliced fennel and a rich pumpkin sauce.
The decadence of the chocolate tart is cut with muntries in lemon and honey. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
For dessert we share a decadent chocolate tart served with muntries and a creme brulee which I immediately give a very satisfying ‘crack’. They’re both classics done very well and I enjoy using slices of pistachio biscotti to mop up the creme.
Kevin is working on growing the wine list to encompass more local wines and esoteric international bottles too. And there are wine dinners on the cards in the future as well, or you can BYO for dinner service if you’ve got a bottle you’d like to show off to your mates.
Parlour is located at 16 Kendall Ln, Canberra. They are open from 4 to 10 pm Tuesday to Saturday. Follow Parlour on Facebook or Instagram.
High Jinks bar is located in the basement of the same building and is open seven nights a week until late. Follow High Jinks on Facebook or Instagram.
