Olivia’s favourite niece, Yu (pictured), inspired the name for the cafe and also serves customers. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
It’s not often that people start a hospitality business to ‘slow down’ as they get older, but that is exactly what chef Olivia Poo has done with her Dickson business, Yu Cafe. Named after her favourite niece (who is also the barista), Yu Cafe draws on Asian dessert cafe culture with its icy treats and sweet drinks.
Olivia is originally from Malaysia, but her hospitality career started in Melbourne, working in a Japanese restaurant. Upon arriving in Canberra, she identified a gap in the coffee-dominated market for more Malaysian-inspired dishes and Asian desserts.
“Not so many Asian people like to drink coffee because of the bitterness,” she told Region.
“That’s why things like bubble tea are so popular, they’re sweeter.”
And because they’re usually less caffeinated than espresso coffee, you can drink them well into the evening. While many Canberra Cafes close their doors at 2 or 3, Yu Cafe stays open until 6 pm.
Olivia describes Yu Cafe as a ‘chit-chat place’, and under the shady trees in the courtyard, it’s tempting to linger. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
One of her unique selling points is bingsu, flavoured shaved ice with toppings. It’s a dessert style popular across Asia, but the Korean term bingsu has become widely recognised.
Some shaved ice desserts have a plain water or milk base and are served with syrups and other toppings, but Olivia flavours each base individually. I tried her signature bingsu: coconut rose bliss.
“It’s based on the flavours of the Malaysian Bandung drink, but the ice softens the flavour and gives it more of an ice cream flavour than a very strong rose,” said Olivia.
Colourful coconut rose bliss bingsu is a delicious treat on a hot day. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
This pretty-in-pink dessert is super refreshing, and each mouthful is different as I load up my spoon with grass jelly, pieces of lychee, lychee ‘pearls’ and condensed milk. I often find rose flavours overpowering, but Olivia is right: in bingsu form, the strength of the floral has been tempered, and it’s absolutely delicious.
Olivia also makes me an iced coffee with yuzu, which is refreshing and zesty.
Olivia’s menu reflects her Malaysian heritage and the preferences of her regular customers. You want an egg and bacon roll? Sure – it’s on the menu. Spaghetti bolognaise? Okay, pop it next to the roti canai!
“I have to take care of my customers: there are many seniors around here,” Olivia said.
“And I am getting older and slowing down too, so I just want to cook whatever I like!”
Yu Cafe was recommended to me by a friend who often visits early in the morning with her baby – they open at 6:30 am. She loves the friendly service. When I mention this friend to barista Yu, she immediately asks after the baby (we agree he is getting so big).
This special of scrambled eggs topped with house-made bilis sambal was incredibly tasty. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
When I visited, I sampled a new dish Olivia is trying: bilis sambal Royale. Scrambled eggs, served on sourdough toast, are topped with a house-made bilis sambal (anchovy and chilli paste) and crispy kale. Small dried anchovies crunch in the rich, spicy sambal. You definitely need to like anchovies to enjoy this dish, but if, like me, you do, then I heartily recommend it!
Olivia describes her cafe as a ‘chit-chat place’: somewhere to relax in the shade, gossip with friends and slurp spoonfuls of tasty Asian desserts.
Yu Cafe is located at 3/24 Dickson Pl, Dickson. They are open from 6:30 am to 6 pm (the kitchen closes at 4:30 pm) from Thursday to Tuesday. Follow Yu Cafe on Instagram.
