The Feast Box features all three meats, sides and sauces. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
It’s rare in Canberra to see much of a line for anything. But a barbecue joint has emerged that is so good, people will queue for HOURS to get their hands on it – this sucker included!
Big Box Barbecue is the first vendor to take residence at the Iluka St Markets, a collaborative commercial kitchen space at Narrabundah shops. Both businesses are run by Canberra Chef Michael Box, a Texas Barbecue enthusiast and brisket lover.
The first weekend of trading saw queues down the block, so I cleverly waited a week until the opening buzz had faded. But it turns out the buzz isn’t going anywhere, and I was too late! Despite queuing for over an hour, I missed out by this much as the customer just two people ahead of me in the queue snaffled the last brisket burger.
I returned a week later, determined not to be gazumped again! Despite feeling worse for wear after a few late-night gimlets at Outro, I rugged up against the chilly morning, armed myself with a coffee and parked myself outside the shop 45 minutes before opening time at 11:30 am. This was undoubtedly overkill, but I was on a mission!
The brisket burgers are best eaten immediately to reward yourself for queuing. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
The smell of smoke was in the air, and as the clock ticked towards 11:30, more folks joined the line. My neighbours in the queue were mostly locals who had made the trip to their local barbecue joint part of their weekly routine. The staff were also sitting outside with us in the morning sun as they waited for the brisket burgers to finish: the last piece of cooking to be done before they could start serving.
I opted for the Feast Box: a large tray with all three smoked meats, three side dishes, plus pickles and bread. This weekend, it was brisket, pulled pork and smoked jalapeño sausage, but other days have also featured smoked turkey breast. Other options include a box with one or two meats, 12-hour smoked short rib, 8-hour smoked pork belly and, of course, the brisket burger.
I took the box home to share with friends for lunch, but also decided to treat myself to a brisket burger in recognition of my hard work that day (aka: getting out of bed). The patty is thickly crumbed with black pepper and oozing with mayo and cheese. The texture was surprisingly firm, but smoky, juicy, and delicious in a super soft bun, and the thick, crinkle-cut pickles added a punch of acidity to each bite.
Michael Box launched Iluka St Market as a collaborative space for multiple businesses to operate. Photo: Lucy Ridge.
Gathered with friends later that day, we tucked in. The brisket simply fell to pieces at a touch and the pulled pork was beautifully dressed with a tangy hot vinegar. The sausage skin snapped with a juicy bite and was a delight to eat with the barbecue sauce.
And while the meat was the main attraction, the sides were given a lot of love that elevated the meal from good to phenomenal. Michael’s hospitality experience was on display, with each dish given a great deal of attention to detail. The slaw was crunchy, refreshing and acidic. The potato salad was creamy, spiked with dill and moreish. The pickles were punchy, the onions were sweet and tangy, and the bread (courtesy of Danny’s bakery next door) was pillowy-soft and perfect for sopping up sauce.
But the beans: good God, I dream of these beans. Texas pit beans catapulted to greatness with smoky brisket and rich molasses. If I could go back in time, I would buy extra tubs to have on toast at breakfast. I certainly didn’t expect to go for BBQ and come out of the meal obsessed with beans, but life takes you by surprise sometimes!
So, was it worth the wait? You betcha!
Big Box Barbecue is located at Iluka St Market, Narrabundah Shops, Iluka Street, Narrabundah. Follow Big Box Barbecue on Instagram, and follow Iluka St Market on Instagram. Big Box Barbecue is open on weekends from 11.30 am until they sell out. And they will!
